Cuttings
A cutting is a small piece removed from a plant which with proper treatment can be induced to form roots and then grow into a specimen which is identical to the parent plant. You cannot guess the best type of cutting to take nor the best time to propagate a specimen which is identical to the parent plant. There are, however, a few general rules. Plant the cutting as soon as possible after severing it from the parent plant and make sure that the compost is in close contact with the inserted part. Do not keep pulling at the cutting to see if it has rooted - the appearance of new growth is the best guide.
Softwood cuttings:
These are green at the top and the base, and are taken from early spring to midsummer. Many hardy perennials and some small shrubs are propagated in this way. Basal cuttings are shoots formed at the base of the plant and pulled away for use as softwood cuttings in spring.
Semi-ripe cuttings:
These are green at the top and partly woody at the base, they are usually heel cuttings. Midsummer to early autumn is the usual time and most shrubs, climbers and conifers are propagated by using this method.
Hardwood cuttings:
A large variety of trees, shrubs, Roses and bush fruit can be propagated in this way. The usual time is late autumn. Choose a well ripened shoot from this years growth.
Roots with soil:
You will never finish stocking your garden as long as you remain a gardener. There will always be more spaces to fill, old plants to renew and new varieties to try. The easiest way to achieve success at planting time is to use pot-grown specimens or container-grown plants so as to avoid root disturbance. There are times, however, when we must rely on lifted plants, such as hardy perennials dug up at the nursery, bedding plants taken out of plastic trays or rooted cuttings separated from others in a propagator. In these cases some root damage is inevitable, and the rules for planting are designed to reduce this shock to a minimum. The leaves will continue to lose water after planting and so it is essential that new roots are produced as quickly as possible to replace the damaged ones. This calls for thorough soil preparation, careful lifting and then planting at the right time and in the right way.
Bare-rooted plants:
These are dug up at the nursery and transported without soil, at one time all of our Roses were bought this way. Damp material, such as peat, is packed around the roots to prevent them from drying out and at no stage should the roots be allowed to become dry. Bare-rooted plants are less expensive than their container-grown counterparts and it is not true that they are always more difficult to establish - some shrubs take root more readily when planted as bare-rooted stock.
Planting time is the dormant season between autumn and spring - choose mid October to November if you can, but delay planting until March if the soil is heavy and cold. Cut off all leaves, dead flowers, thin or damaged stems and damaged roots. If the stem is shrivelled plunge the roots in a bucket of water for 2 hours. Place packing material over the roots when you are ready to begin planting. If you can't plan straight away, leave the packing material intact and put in a cool but frost-free place. If the delay is likely to last more than a few days, unpack and heel the plants in by digging a V-shaped trench in which the roots are placed and covered.
A cutting is a small piece removed from a plant which with proper treatment can be induced to form roots and then grow into a specimen which is identical to the parent plant. You cannot guess the best type of cutting to take nor the best time to propagate a specimen which is identical to the parent plant. There are, however, a few general rules. Plant the cutting as soon as possible after severing it from the parent plant and make sure that the compost is in close contact with the inserted part. Do not keep pulling at the cutting to see if it has rooted - the appearance of new growth is the best guide.
Softwood cuttings:
These are green at the top and the base, and are taken from early spring to midsummer. Many hardy perennials and some small shrubs are propagated in this way. Basal cuttings are shoots formed at the base of the plant and pulled away for use as softwood cuttings in spring.
Semi-ripe cuttings:
These are green at the top and partly woody at the base, they are usually heel cuttings. Midsummer to early autumn is the usual time and most shrubs, climbers and conifers are propagated by using this method.
Hardwood cuttings:
A large variety of trees, shrubs, Roses and bush fruit can be propagated in this way. The usual time is late autumn. Choose a well ripened shoot from this years growth.
Roots with soil:
You will never finish stocking your garden as long as you remain a gardener. There will always be more spaces to fill, old plants to renew and new varieties to try. The easiest way to achieve success at planting time is to use pot-grown specimens or container-grown plants so as to avoid root disturbance. There are times, however, when we must rely on lifted plants, such as hardy perennials dug up at the nursery, bedding plants taken out of plastic trays or rooted cuttings separated from others in a propagator. In these cases some root damage is inevitable, and the rules for planting are designed to reduce this shock to a minimum. The leaves will continue to lose water after planting and so it is essential that new roots are produced as quickly as possible to replace the damaged ones. This calls for thorough soil preparation, careful lifting and then planting at the right time and in the right way.
Bare-rooted plants:
These are dug up at the nursery and transported without soil, at one time all of our Roses were bought this way. Damp material, such as peat, is packed around the roots to prevent them from drying out and at no stage should the roots be allowed to become dry. Bare-rooted plants are less expensive than their container-grown counterparts and it is not true that they are always more difficult to establish - some shrubs take root more readily when planted as bare-rooted stock.
Planting time is the dormant season between autumn and spring - choose mid October to November if you can, but delay planting until March if the soil is heavy and cold. Cut off all leaves, dead flowers, thin or damaged stems and damaged roots. If the stem is shrivelled plunge the roots in a bucket of water for 2 hours. Place packing material over the roots when you are ready to begin planting. If you can't plan straight away, leave the packing material intact and put in a cool but frost-free place. If the delay is likely to last more than a few days, unpack and heel the plants in by digging a V-shaped trench in which the roots are placed and covered.
A fantastic period of my time is spent in my garden, but as I am
getting older and things are becoming harder to do. I have decided to
make use of a firm called Landscaper London.
Up to now they have given me all the help and advice that I have asked
for. I still do a bit of pottering around my own garden.
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